An exceptional 19th-century high-jewellery bracelet, crafted in solid 18ct gold, set with approximately 4.00 carats of diamonds and natural Burmese rubies, and presented in its original fitted box bearing the initials M.V.
The bracelet is composed of old European-cut diamonds, slightly graduating in size, each set in 18ct white gold to maximise brilliance, and linked by exquisitely detailed naturalistic floral motifs. These floral links are formed as stylised wildflowers, a romantic and symbolic motif popular in late 19th-century jewellery, with ruby petals, rose-cut diamond centres, and additional rose-cut diamond accents at the stem tip.
The diamonds are beautifully proportioned and lively, with the largest old European cut measuring approximately 6.45mm in diameter within its setting (approx. 0.85ct), graduating down to 5.5mm at either end. The richly toned 18ct yellow gold links create a striking contrast between the warmth of the gold and the cool brilliance of the white-gold diamond settings.
The rubies were examined in situ during the purchasing process by a reputable French gemstone laboratory and were verbally assessed as natural Burmese stones showing no indications of heat treatment, based on professional gemmological observation.
With an overall length of 6.89 inches (17.5cm), this bracelet is ideally suited to a wrist measuring between 6.0–6.4 inches, or up to 6.5 inches for a close, tailored fit. It weighs a substantial 23.84 grams, and is constructed with solid (not hollow) curb-chain links measuring 5.20mm wide, and finished with a hidden clasp and security catch, a clear indicator of quality and durability.
The clasp bears two French hallmarks. One depicts a head, likely referencing the Tête de Vieillard (Old Man’s Head) mark, a Paris assay mark historically used between 1798 and 1809 for medium-sized gold and silver objects, suggesting that the clasp component may pre-date the bracelet and was later incorporated, a practice consistent with 19th-century French jewellery-making. The second mark is the French owl (Hibou) import mark, introduced around 1893, used to certify 18ct gold imported into France. Together, these marks are consistent with Continental origin and French assay and regulation.
The bracelet exemplifies the transition from late Victorian naturalism into early Belle Époque refinement, combining sentimental symbolism with increasing lightness and elegance. The repeated floral links soften the linear diamond form, creating rhythm, movement, and narrative, far removed from a simple diamond line bracelet. Rubies used as petals rather than central stones are a confident and luxurious design choice, seen only in higher-end jewellery of the period, while rose-cut diamonds for botanical details add delicacy and period authenticity.
The bracelet is accompanied by its original fitted box, branded Guillemin Frères, jewellers of 3, Rue des Moulins, Paris, a respected 19th-century Parisian firm. The interior lid also bears the inscription “Médaille d’Honneur Londres 1889”, referencing the firm’s award at an international exhibition and underscoring the prestige and exhibition-era standing of the house. While the bracelet itself bears French import and assay marks rather than a visible maker’s mark, the survival of its original branded box provides valuable provenance and strongly suggests retail by, or attribution to, Guillemin Frères.
The bracelet is in excellent antique condition, with all stones, settings, links, and clasp mechanisms professionally checked by our workshop.
A museum-quality bracelet, rare not only for its materials but for its poetry, symbolism, and craftsmanship - a true collector’s piece that sits confidently among the finest examples of late 19th-century European high jewellery.
19th Century French Diamond & Ruby Floral Bracelet - Guillemin Frères Fitted Box
- Era: 19th century (late Victorian/early Belle Époque)
- Metal: Solid 18ct gold (yellow gold body, white gold diamond settings)
- Stones:
- Old European cuts, approx. 4.00ct total
- Natural Burmese rubies, no heat (verbally confirmed by a Parisian lab)
- Dimensions:
- Length: 6.89 inches / 17.5cm
- Width: 7.5mm at the widest point
- Weight: 23.84g
- Hallmarks: French marks (including Tête de Vieillard), French owl import mark. Professionally tested on an XRF analyser to further confirm the metal purity.
- Condition: Excellent antique condition. Original fitted box included, with initials M.V.
Unless otherwise stated, any chains, jewellery boxes, and other items photographed with the listed piece are for advertising purposes only and not sold with this piece.
































