An exceptional and exceedingly rare Art Nouveau medallion pendant by celebrated French sculptor and medallist S. É. Vernier (1852–1927), signed S.E. VERNIER on the obverse. This poetic design depicts a tranquil female profile in low relief, her finger raised to her lips in a timeless gesture of silence or discretion. She is framed by finely modelled flowers, each delicately accented with rose-cut diamonds. The medal’s symbolism and allegorical style are emblematic of Vernier’s mastery during the Belle Époque, marrying refinement with the introspective beauty of Art Nouveau design.
 
This exact design was exhibited at the 1908 Exposition de la Parure Précieuse de la Femme at the Paris Salon, and is documented in: Alastair Duncan, Art Nouveau Designers at the Paris Salons: Jewellery 1895-1914, Volume II: L-Z, p. 249.
 
Set into an exquisite 18ct gold pendant mount, the medal is surrounded by calibré-cut synthetic rubies and further embellished with rose-cut diamonds throughout. Intricate milgrain detailing enhances the frame, which has been expertly soldered to create a subtle space around the medal - giving the impression that it floats within its setting.
 
Additional rose-cut diamonds are grain-set within four fleur-de-lis motifs on the frame, and three more form a necklace worn by the figure in the medallion. The articulated bail, decorated with three graduated rose-cut diamonds, is stamped with a lozenge-shaped maker’s mark, typical of Vernier’s collaborations with specialist Parisian ateliers for mounting his Salon exhibition pieces.
 
Condition:
Very good antique condition, with minor nibbles to some of the rubies as expected for a piece of this age. There may be a very light ding to the medal; however, it appears this could be an intentional feature designed to enhance the modelling of the lady’s collarbone and shoulder. The pendant is presented in a fitted box with the initials H.S.P. on the lid, further supporting the theory that the piece was framed as part of a bespoke commission following its exhibition.
 
Hallmarks:
Eagle’s head – French 18ct gold assay mark
Rhinoceros head (small, facing left) – Petite garantie mark for small gold components
Lozenge maker’s mark – Denotes the mounting workshop
 
Specifications:
Total weight: 10.53g
Dimensions: 40.5mm long (including bail) x 32.5mm wide
Bail: 9mm long x 3.5mm wide, with an opening of approx. 5mm x 3.5mm
 
This jewel stands as a confirmed Paris Salon exhibition piece, distinguished by its impeccable provenance, refined artistry, and rare documentation. A museum-worthy collector’s item, it epitomises the confluence of medallic sculpture and high Art Nouveau jewellery, capturing the elegance and symbolism of La Belle Époque.